Loire à Vélo between Saumur and Chinon: a stop at Candes-Saint-Martin

A stretch of Loire à Vélo best tackled in short stages

Loire à Vélo winds through the Val de Loire, a UNESCO World Heritage site; between Saumur and Chinon, it passes through a village ranked among Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, at the confluence of the Loire and Vienne rivers. This section lends itself perfectly to short stages, as points of interest are spaced at regular intervals: Saumur and its castle, Turquant with its houses carved into the tuffeau stone, Montsoreau and its waterside château, Candes-Saint-Martin and its collegiate church, then Chinon and its royal fortress.

You can thus decide along the way to stop earlier or later, without spoiling your day. This is what makes Candes such a welcome halfway point between two towns that each deserve their own time.

Exact distances depend on the route and direction you choose; refer to the official map of the itinerary on loireavelo.fr to plan your day.

Unmissable stops between Saumur and Chinon

Saumur, well served by train from Paris, makes a good starting point. Its castle and the Cadre Noir make it a must-see before hitting the road.

Turquant, between Saumur and Montsoreau, has carved its houses, workshops and cellars into the tuffeau cliff face. The village is home to craftspeople and offers lovely views over the Loire.

Montsoreau is just a few minutes' walk from Candes-Saint-Martin. Its château, built in 1450, is the only one on the Loire constructed in the river bed itself; it now houses a contemporary art museum (€12 adult entry, €8 for ages 5–18 according to our Visits page; please check admission prices before you go). On the second Sunday of each month, the quays host the Puces de Montsoreau, a riverside antiques and bric-à-brac fair.

Candes-Saint-Martin deserves more than a quick pedal through. The Collégiale Saint-Martin overlooks the confluence of the rivers; it was here that Saint Martin died on 8 November 397, making the village a pilgrimage destination. The tuffeau stone alleyways, the rue du Bas where river boatmen once lived, and the view from the Vienne bridge are all easily explored on foot.

Chinon completes the loop. The royal fortress, built between the 10th and 15th centuries, overlooks the old town; it can be visited in one to two hours (full price €8.50, concession €6.50 according to our Visits page). Chinon and its fortress make for a splendid cycle ride from Candes-Saint-Martin.

For those keen to explore further, the royal abbey of Fontevraud is 5 km from the château: it's one of the region's finest detours, best saved for a day off rather than as part of the cycling stage itself.

Why stay at Château de Candes

Château de Candes Art & Spa sits on the Loire à Vélo route and carries the Accueil Vélo label. Bicycles are available to hire on site: you can arrive on foot, by train or on your own bike, and set off cycling the next day.

What a stay includes:

• the Zen Garden spa. Two hours of spa time are complimentary with each night's stay: heated indoor pool, sauna, troglodytic hammam and year-round heated Nordic bath; the heated outdoor pool is open from 1 May to 30 September. After a day in the saddle, it's the most persuasive reason to stay;
• the Street Art Parc. Five hectares, over sixty monumental artworks along the Loire à Vélo route and the Road to Compostela, open daily from April through to the end of December, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., with unlimited access for our guests;
• tailored accommodation. Rooms in the château, suites with kitchens or kitchenettes, houses sleeping up to eight: whether you're travelling as a couple, with friends or as a family;
• At table. Le Pressoir du Château, a troglodytic restaurant, serves dinner Thursday to Sunday, 7 pm to 10.30 pm. In summer, Le Baladin opens its terrace overlooking the Loire from 1st April to 18th October, for homemade brunch or lunch.

A two-day itinerary

Day 1: from Saumur to Candes-Saint-Martin. Visit Saumur in the morning, then head towards Turquant and Montsoreau. End with the Candes collegiate church and the viewpoint over the confluence. Settle into the château (arrival from 3 pm), then visit Zen Garden: guests have access from 8 am to 10 pm, in two-hour reserved time slots. Dinner at Le Pressoir if it's an opening evening.

Day 2: from Candes-Saint-Martin to Chinon. Departure after breakfast (buffet at Le Pressoir, 8.30 am to 10.30 am, supplement applies). Accommodation is available until 11 am. Visit Chinon fortress, lunch in town and return by train or car.

You can also reverse the route, or add a night for a day without cycling: Fontevraud, the spa, the park. On Sundays, Le Pressoir serves its Sunday lunch brunch-style from 11 am to 2 pm.

Getting there, leaving, organising your logistics

Candes-Saint-Martin is 20 minutes' drive from Saumur and 25 minutes from Chinon. From Paris, allow approximately 2 hours by train to Saumur or Port-Boulet, then 10 to 20 minutes by car, or about 3 hours by car. Port-Boulet station is 10 minutes from the château; regional trains connect it to Tours in half an hour. Bike transport conditions vary by train: check with SNCF before booking.

Public car park is free, at the top of rue Trochet, at the corner of rue du Puits Saint-Michel; the château reception is about a hundred metres away. It is open every day from 8.30 am to 7 pm, with telephone cover day and night. If you arrive after 7 pm, please let us know.

To book your stay, use the booking engine; to book spa access or a massage, visit the spa page. The 20-minute express massage is €53 according to the rate displayed at the time of writing: a perfect treatment for tired legs.

Practical information

• Where: Château de Candes Art & Spa, Candes-Saint-Martin, between Saumur (20 minutes) and Chinon (25 minutes).
• For whom: cycle tourists, couples and families cycling the Loire à Vélo route.
• Recommended duration: one night as a stopover, two nights to enjoy the spa and Fontevraud.
• Label: Accueil Vélo; bike rental available on site.
• Included in your stay: two hours at Zen Garden spa per night, unlimited access to Street Art Parc, complimentary Wi-Fi.
• Access: Port-Boulet station 10 minutes away, Saumur station 20 minutes away; free public car park on rue Trochet.